Beer and food pairing at Deschutes Brewery – Portland

December 17th, 2009
Monday evening. Portland, Oregon pearl district. A crowded bar. Someone yells out “Go Ducks!” Sound like a football game? Think again. It was the first ever Deschutes Brewery Chefs’ Challenge, held at the Portland pub and featuring some of the town’s best chefs competing for the title of best food and beer pairing of the evening. The Ducks comment? In response to course number three – “housemade duck and hazelnut sausage with cranberries” presented by Chef Adam Berger of Ten 01.
This very special event was a fundraiser for Morrison Child and Family Services, which serves children who have suffered trauma, and Deschutes shut down its Portland location for the evening. Chefs from around the city gathered and a literal sea of white coats filled the front and back kitchen.
Guests were initially greeted by passed hors d’oeuvres prepared by Deschutes Brewery’s executive chef Jeff Usinowicz. Each time a server passed our table, our group played dumb – “Oh, lovely! An ale pretzel with a warm chanterelle mushroom taleggio cheese sauce? We’d LOVE one (although we’d already had three each).” Also passed around was a surprisingly smooth Cortes Island Oyster on the half shell – sitting beautifully underneath both fish eggs (tabiko caviar) and a raw quail egg, along with a hop-infused ponzu sauce. Jeff rounded off the first course with hop and lime marinated wild gulf prawns: another dish of which we finagled more than one round. Cascade Ale was the perfect crisp, citrusy beer to pair with all this wonderful seafood.
Next up, Chef Pascal Chureau of Fenouil served a rabbit loin crepinette, a dense, rich meat over a risotto sweetened with maple syrup and bourbon gastrique. Paired with the Bavarian-style Miss Spelt Hefeweisen, whose banana and bubblegum (yes, bubblegum) undertones complemented the sweetness in the dish.
Chef Adam Berger’s duck dish came up next, as the crowd became more animated – helped in part by the pairing with Dubel Ale. This 6% alcohol ale, with its dried fruit aromas, is one the brewery’s been experimenting with for awhile. It was a great match with the duck and hazelnut sausage.
With the next course, the beer became more intense with the Long Shadow Black IPA, with its piney citrus background, hoppy undertones and opaque color. It contrasted sharply with the smoked trout, leek and potato mason jar pie created by Chef Paul Bachand from Farm to Fork. A bridge between the beer and the pie was made with a bright herb and winter radish salad.
Everyone got excited when the next round of beer showed up on the table – it was the beloved Jubelale, made even better through a delectable pairing by Chef Kurt Spak of Alba Osteria. Spak served up agnolotti al plin with Oregon black truffles. Don’t know what that is? We didn’t either, so we whipped out the trusty smart phone and looked it up. Apparently the term means “tiny pasta”, so that wasn’t very helpful, but these veal and pork stuffed tidbits won over our taste buds without any explanation needed.
What’s between a custard and a soufflé? Nostrana Chef Cathy Whims’ cauliflower sformato with Oregon black truffles. Full of French influence from the Piedmonte region, this buttery, warm treat was the perfect match to another Deschutes favorite – the Obsidian Stout.
Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the dessert came – prepared by Deschutes Brewery pastry chef Jill Ramseier. OMG. Sweet and salty peanut butter bon bon with root beer meringue, we love you. A chocolate butterfly fluttered above the plate. One member of our table received a dessert with a broken wing. Our table almost broke into the Mr. Mister song from the 80s, “Broken Wings” – but we refrained (mostly). This wonderful denouement was complemented by – what else  - The Abyss.
So, who won this thing anyway? It was a VERY hard call. In fact, one of the judges for the event exclaimed when the fourth course came out – “I didn’t think I had any more love to give!” Judges and guests alike were amazed at the wonderful pairings that came out of the kitchen.
The judges – Gary Fish of Deschutes Brewery, Amy Faust of the Wolf 99.7, Cole Danehower of NW Palate Magazine, Alan Kropf of Mutineer Magazine and John Foyston of The Oregonian – were “utterly amazed” by the “wonderfully composed dishes which played off each of the beers.” But, in the end, decisions had to be made.
#1 Alba Osteria
#2 Nostrana
#3 Fenouil
But that’s not really the end! The People’s Choice award was also given, and included all of our table’s top choices. Guess we weren’t the only ones!
#1 Farm to Fork
#2 Nostrana
#3 Fenouil
Thank you to everyone who helped to make this a tremendous event. We decided it wouldn’t be such a bad job to have to do this every night!

Monday evening. Portland, Oregon. The Pearl District. A crowded bar. Someone yells out “Go Ducks!” Sound like a football game? Think again. It was the first ever Deschutes Brewery Chefs’ Challenge, held at the Portland pub and featuring some of the town’s best chefs competing for the title of best food and beer pairing of the evening. The Ducks comment? In response to course number three – “housemade duck and hazelnut sausage with cranberries” presented by Chef Adam Berger of Ten 01.

“Housemade duck and hazelnut sausage with cranberries” presented by Chef Adam Berger of Ten 01.

“Housemade duck and hazelnut sausage with cranberries” presented by Chef Adam Berger of Ten 01.

This very special event was a fundraiser for Morrison Child and Family Services, which serves children who have suffered trauma, and Deschutes shut down its Portland location for the evening. Chefs from around the city gathered and a literal sea of white coats filled the front and back kitchen.

Guests were initially greeted by passed hors d’oeuvres prepared by Deschutes Brewery’s executive chef Jeff Usinowicz. An ale pretzel with a warm chanterelle mushroom taleggio cheese sauce; a surprisingly smooth Cortes Island Oyster on the half shell – sitting beautifully underneath both fish eggs (tabiko caviar) and a raw quail egg, along with a hop-infused ponzu sauce. Jeff rounded off the first course with hop and lime marinated wild gulf prawns: another dish of which we finagled more than one round. Cascade Ale was the perfect crisp, citrusy beer to pair with all this wonderful seafood.

Next up, Chef Pascal Chureau of Fenouil served a rabbit loin crepinette, a dense, rich meat over a risotto sweetened with maple syrup and bourbon gastrique. Paired with the Bavarian-style Miss Spelt Hefeweisen, whose banana and bubblegum (yes, bubblegum) undertones complemented the sweetness in the dish.

Chef Adam Berger’s duck dish came up next, as the crowd became more animated – helped in part by the pairing with Dubel Ale. This 6% alcohol ale, with its dried fruit aromas, is one the brewery’s been experimenting with for awhile. It was a great match with the duck and hazelnut sausage.

With the next course, the beer became more intense with the Long Shadow Black IPA, with its piney citrus background, hoppy undertones and opaque color. It contrasted sharply with the smoked trout, leek and potato mason jar pie created by Chef Paul Bachand from Farm to Fork. A bridge between the beer and the pie was made with a bright herb and winter radish salad.

Everyone got excited when the next round of beer showed up on the table – it was the beloved Jubelale, made even better through a delectable pairing by Chef Kurt Spak of Alba Osteria. Spak served up agnolotti al plin with Oregon black truffles. Don’t know what that is? We didn’t either, so we whipped out the trusty smart phone and looked it up. Apparently the term means “tiny pasta”, so that wasn’t very helpful, but these veal and pork stuffed tidbits won over our taste buds without any explanation needed.

What’s between a custard and a soufflé? Nostrana Chef Cathy Whims’ cauliflower sformato with Oregon black truffles. Full of French influence from the Piedmonte region, this buttery, warm treat was the perfect match to another Deschutes favorite – the Obsidian Stout.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the dessert came – prepared by Deschutes Brewery pastry chef Jill Ramseier. OMG. Sweet and salty peanut butter bon bon with root beer meringue, we love you. A chocolate butterfly fluttered above the plate. This wonderful denouement was complemented by – what else  - The Abyss.

So, who won this thing anyway? It was a VERY hard call. In fact, one of the judges for the event exclaimed when the fourth course came out – “I didn’t think I had any more love to give!” Judges and guests alike were amazed at the wonderful pairings that came out of the kitchen.

The judges – Gary Fish of Deschutes Brewery, Amy Faust of the Wolf 99.7, Cole Danehower of NW Palate Magazine, Alan Kropf of Mutineer Magazine and John Foyston of The Oregonian – were “utterly amazed” by the “wonderfully composed dishes which played off each of the beers.” But, in the end, decisions had to be made.

#1 Alba Osteria

#2 Nostrana

#3 Fenouil

But that’s not really the end! The People’s Choice awards were also given:

#1 Farm to Fork

#2 Nostrana

#3 Fenouil

Thank you to everyone who helped to make this a tremendous event. We decided it wouldn’t be such a bad job to have to do this every night!

Check out the photos by Optic Truth.

http://optictruth.smugmug.com/gallery/10660693_p8GiK#741920087_kbp8B

2010

September 14th, 2009

The dates for next year’s Sagebrush Classic are out! The 22nd annual Sagebrush Classic Golf Tournament and Feast will take place at Broken Top Club on Friday, July 16 and Saturday, July 17.

Keep checking the web site, this blog and Twitter for updates. Thanks again to all those who attended!

A big thank you!

July 20th, 2009

Thanks to everyone who came out to the Sagebrush Classic this weekend. It was a blast, and $80,000 was distributed to Central Oregon charities that benefit children and families.

Chef Tom Fleming: Exclusive Interview

July 16th, 2009

Chef Tom Fleming has been featured in Bon Appétit, Southern Living, Gourmet, Esquire, and USA Today, and won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant for his first restaurant, Brasserie Jo. Chef Fleming has cooked simple, perfect food at restaurants in Chicago, Texas and France. He’s now executive chef for Preferred Restaurant Services in Dallas, where his hearty regional American menu evolves with the seasons to feature the freshest seafood, wild game, local produce and a selection of steaks, and chicken, pork, and game items that are enhanced by slow cooking on an exhibition rotisserie. Fleming regularly flies in fresh ingredients from across the country to heighten the authenticity of the menu.

Dallas Chef Tom Fleming

Dallas Chef Tom Fleming

Is it fun being a chef?
Yes. The best part is no two days are ever the same.

Give three adjectives to describe the Sagebrush Classic.
Sunny, ultra-cool, down-to-earth!

What is your least favorite fruit and why?
Ugli fruit… because it’s ugli!

You’ve been framed for murder by a vicious rival. What do you choose for your last meal?
Seared foie gras to start, followed by rack of lamb, than a cheese course.

What made you want to take part in the Sagebrush Classic Feast?
First it was the thought of going to Bend, Oregon! Then I met the people involved, and the great work they are doing for the various charities. And did I mention Bend, Oregon?

Beer and Food Pairing Tip #5: Match flavors in the beer

July 14th, 2009

Chef Jen Jasinski is a Food Network competitor and the rockstar culinary brain behind Denver’s smash success restaurant Rioja. We like her advice for pairing beer with food — you need to really get to know your beer.

“Drink, drink, drink,” says Chef Jen Jasinski, when asked about the best way to pair great beer with tasty food.

“Try to pick out specific flavors and replicate them in your food,” she says. “Maybe there’s a citrus aftertaste. Then you can do something with tangerine – like that.”

Winner of the beer haiku contest announced!

July 14th, 2009

The winning haiku was submitted by Karen, who has won two tickets to the Sagebrush Classic Feast on Saturday!

Willamette hops taste
like summer: green flowers bright
and sharp as sunlight

Read the rest of the excellent haiku from the finalists here. Congratulations, Karen!

Chef Cathy Whims: Exclusive Interview

July 10th, 2009

As chef and co-owner of Nostrana, an Italian restaurant in Portland, Oregon, Cathy Whims has won numerous awards for her work, including two Restaurant of the Year awards and a nomination from the James Beard Foundation for “Best Chef in the Northwest” — pretty impressive for an Italian chef who is not actually Italian. Her cooking career began at Genoa, another Italian restaurant in Portland, where she flourished for 20 years and eventually became a co-owner. After leaving Genoa, she and three partners opened Nostrana, where the menu is dedicated to the simplicity and purity of regional Italian cooking. Whims always makes sure her food is nutritious, local, and sustainable.

Portland Chef Cathy Whims of Nostrana

Portland Chef Cathy Whims of Nostrana

What exciting new creations are you working on?
A ‘La Cucina Povera’ menu highlighting the rustic and thrifty dishes
of Italian cuisine.

Sounds recession-friendly. What about three adjectives to describe the Sagebrush Classic?
Delicious, sporty and viniferous.

You have had some amazing accolades — including recently being nominated for James Beard Best Chef in the Northwest — what’s the secret to your success and the success of Nostrana?
Having an incredible team of cooks, waiters and managers working together to promote Nostrana. I think it is indicative of our style that ‘Nostrana’ actually means ours in Italian.

Radicchio-caesar salad at Nostrana

Radicchio-caesar salad at Nostrana

What are some of the most overrated — and underrated — seasonings?
Overrated is  truffle oil. Most of it is fake!

Is there a food you just can’t bring yourself to like?
Deep fried grasshoppers, Oaxaca style.

A rival was so incensed by your recent accolades from the James Beard Foundation that they framed you for murder. What’s your last meal?
Bucatini amatriciana, lamb scottaditto and Roman-style deep fried artichokes.

What made you want to take part in the Sagebrush Classic Feast?
Are you kidding – it’s a blast!

What’s the most embarrassing thing you’ve ever done in a restaurant kitchen?
Dropped a 5 gallon container of yogurt all over my head.

Recipe: Slow Baked Salmon With Chardonnay Butter Sauce

July 9th, 2009

This year, The Compound (Santa Fe) Chef Mark Kiffin plans to prepare seared diver scallops, with summer asparagus, peas and baby onions, charred tomato pearl cous cous, and basil-mint pesto. This tantalizing dish will be paired with Sagebrush Classic Pilsner, a traditional German-style Pilsner using only the finest Pilsner malts, Czech Saaz hops and German lager yeast.  Cold fermentation and a long laagering period ensue smooth malt taste and crisp hop bitterness. (Original Gravity 1.048, ABV 5.1%)

Here is another famous recipe of Chef Kiffin’s for…

Slow Baked Salmon With Chardonnay Butter Sauce

Ingredients:

-2 salmon fillets, pin boned, skin on and portioned to approx 8 oz.
-2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced
-1 celery root, peeled and diced
-1 bulb fennel, no green tops, diced
-2 white onions, peeled, and diced
-1 bunch fresh thyme
-1 bunch flat leaf parsley
-1/2 bunch fresh basil

Method:

Pre-heat oven to 175, 250 if convection. Season fillets with salt and pepper. Mix the carrots, celery root, fennel and onion. In a baking dish just big enough for the fish, layer the vegetables on the bottom, the fish fillets on top, trying not to have ends touching. Lay the fresh herbs over the top of the fish, covering it as much as possible. Cover the dish with foil and place in the oven approximately for 45 minutes to cook completely through, less if more medium or medium rare is preferred. Serve with Chardonnay butter sauce or chill and cut up for salmon salad.

Yield: 4 servings

Beer and Food Pairing Tip: Pairing with dissidents

July 7th, 2009

The Dissident, from Deschutes Brewery's Reserve Series.

Fermented for more than 18 months in isolation from the rest of the beers, The Dissident is a distinctive Flanders-style sour brown ale from Deschutes Brewery, with a fruity aroma and flavor.

If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on a bottle, the fruit and acidity in The Dissident make it ideal for pairing with a wide variety of dishes. The high acidity is perfect for cutting creamy dishes or cooling spicy ones. Because of the fruity characteristics derived from the cherries, the beer also pairs well with chocolate.

Deschutes Brewery President and Founder Gary Fish recommends pairing The Dissident with anything chocolate — the darker the better — soft cheeses like Brie, and creamy dishes like spaghetti carbonara or macaroni and cheese.

Chef Matt Neltner: Exclusive Interview

July 6th, 2009

Few people realize that Chef Matt Neltner uses beer in almost every item on the menu at the Deschutes Brewery pub in Bend. Chef Neltner’s emphasis is on fresh and handcrafted products with everything possible made on premise including the sausage, breads and mustard. Even the burgers come from freshly-ground, locally-farmed Borlen Cattle Company beef raised on Deschutes Brewery’s spent grain and hops.

Executive Chef Matt Neltner of the Deschutes Brewery pub in Bend.

Matt Neltner is executive chef at the Deschutes Brewery pub in Bend.

What’s the best part of working at Deschutes Brewery?
The best part of working at Deschutes Brewery is the people. The folks that I work with are a wonderful group of people who are dedicated to the craftsmanship of beer and food.

What exciting new creations are you working on?
I am putting out a new spring and summer menu with lots of fresh fish and salads with some fun beer-infused salad dressings.  We are also getting ready for our 2nd Annual Chocolate Beer dinner, where all the food and all the beer are made with chocolate.

Give three adjectives to describe the Sagebrush Classic.
Delicious, gratifying, and inspiring.

Favorite Deschutes Brewery beer and why.
Mirror Pond Pale Ale.  I love its balance.  It pairs well with many types of food.  Nostalgia… It is the first Deschutes beer I really got to know.

What made you want to take part in the Sagebrush Classic Feast?
The Sagebrush Classic offers an opportunity to work with some of the country’s most creative chefs in an environment that benefits the community that I live in and love dearly.

Most embarrassing moment as a chef?
My most embarrassing moment probably came when I left a message for my beef order on my seafood purveyor’s machine and my seafood order on my beef purveyor’s.  I did not find out that I did this until several weeks later. Both purveyors were familiar with each other so they called each other and straightened out my order without my being the wiser.